Designing for a fashion film make-up

Equipments:

  • Cleanser, toner, moisturizer
  • Cotton pads
  • Cotton buds
  • Primer
  • Kryolan foundation palette
  • Powder
  • Foundation brush
  • Powder brush
  • Supracolor palette
  • Angle brushes
  • Kryolan brush palette
  • A blush brush
  • Illamasqua neutral palette
  • Illamasqua sculpting powder duo
  • Eye shadow brushes

On below is the face chart that I’ve done and also the task.

Scan_20151025 (2) Scan_20151025

This is a review from a recent Marc Jacob catwalk show, printed in Vogue magazine.

“The undeniable sinister edge was mostly derived from the combination of the screeching scratching string soundtrack- uncomfortably grating- and the ugly hair and make-up; Jacob’s models wore tightest top knots and their faces were powdered pale with sunken shadowed eyes and lips painted in deepest darkest plum- it was haunting- and quite shocking to the eye.” 

Sarah Harris

This is a quote from the make-up designer Francois Nars

“Marc wanted a very strong, elegant and sophisticated woman this season- a Diana Vreeland type. I looked to the swans of the 50’s and 60’s”

The task:

Marc Jacobs is looking to make a short fashion film using this new collection as inspiration.

Although the look has a slightly sinister feel, it must have all the beauty and glamour of a 1950’s black and white Hollywood film.

The first scene will open on a beautiful woman draped across a chaise longue. She is in a very exclusive members bar/ club and she is holding a cocktail in one hand.

Explain the mood that you want to convey. What music will you choose to set the mood? How would you like the scene to be lit? How will the lighting effect you make-up?

So after reading the task, I have created the make-up look before looking at the images and watching the videos from the fashion show. We were given a review from Sarah Harris in Vogue magazine about the look, the makeup and hair look, the music and the mood. Also, we have given a quote from the makeup designer Francois Nars about his makeup designs and also three costumes from the catwalk show.

I’ve decided to use a dark purple reddish color on the lips to create the feminine, glamour look and also in the task, it said that ‘the look has a slightly sinister feel’ and so I think a dark purple reddish color will be a right choice to create this effect as dark purple is the color which means gloom while adding a bit of the red color to show glamour. I have made the skin paler than my actress’s original skin tone as I want the sunken cheeks, black angled brows and eyeliners to stand out more and it also links to the ‘pale’ complexion which was described by Sarah Harris’s review. The skin was powdered to set the makeup and I have applied highlights on the bridge of the nose, the chin and on the cheeks. I have used strong thin angled black eyebrows and bronzer on the cheeks to create sunken cheeks effect and this helps to show ‘a slightly of sinister feel’ and ‘strong, elegant and sophisticated woman’.  Also, I have applied strong contouring and eye make-up. The angled brows, the pale skin, the contouring and the dark colored lips link to the ‘1950’s black and white Hollywood film’. But for my design of this make-up look, I would say it is a more contemporary style make-up look as I have mixed the idea of using a bold eyeliner on the lid inspired by the 60s to show the sunken effects on the eyes. I have used a black eye graphic liner to frame the eye socket to create bold and sharp effects. It also matches the third dress on the right from Marc Jacobs Autumn/ Winter 2015 Fashion Show which has got strong line patterns. I have applied black eye shadow for the eyes to look more sunken because I want the black graphic eyeliner to stand out more. For the bottom lashes, I have drawn some lashes for a more dramatic effects.

For the mood, I want to convey a sinister feeling but also presents the idea of glamorous as in the task, ‘the first scene will open a beautiful woman draped across a chaise longue. She is in a very exclusive members bar/club and she is holding a cocktail in one hand’.  The quote also shows her character of being rich and the setting will be luxury but in order to create sinister feeling, it will be filmed in dim lighting. Because it will be shot in dim lighting, in order to stand out the make-up, I want to use the lighting like the photo on below, bright lighting just focus on the character but the lighting around the character will not be completely dark as I want the audience to see she is in an exclusive members bar/club.

http://catalog.soundsbutter.com/wp-content/uploads/2007/04/fashion-shoot-for-chailie-ho-2.jpg

I have chosen the music: Bartok Music for strings, percussion & celesta (Fricsay) III for the fashion film as it is a classic “night music” which creates sinister feelings. I think the string instruments will help to bring the mood of eerie but also luxury to the film and the percussion and the celesta also create the sinister and eerie effects.

On below is the make-up look that I’ve created on my partner. To improve with the make-up look, I can apply gloss on the lips to give a more glamorous look and this also shows more the 1950’s black and white Hollywood film look.

20151019_165223  20151019_165240  20151019_165243 20151019_165246  20151019_165301  20151019_165307

After I have watched the catwalk show and saw the looks and styles from the catwalk show, I can see how the pale make-up and the dark plum lips shows the glamour and feminine side of the models, but also creates the sinister feeling. I can also see the contouring under the cheeks creates the sunken effects as well. I think the background music is strong, eerie and rhythmic which complemented with the pale make-up and the line patterns on the garments as the music is quite gloomy, uncomfortable and dark. The catwalk setting is quite gloominess which also complimented with the music.

http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/autumn-winter-2015/ready-to-wear/marc-jacobs/full-length-photos/gallery/1345299
http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/autumn-winter-2015/ready-to-wear/marc-jacobs/full-length-photos/gallery/1345300
http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/autumn-winter-2015/ready-to-wear/marc-jacobs/full-length-photos/gallery/1345291
http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/autumn-winter-2015/ready-to-wear/marc-jacobs/backstage-photos/gallery/1345076

On above is one of the make-up look from the catwalk show. I like how the lashes and the brows looks natural and you can see the hair on the brows. I think it stands out grey eye shadow on the lids which helps ‘the sunken eyes’ to stand out from the look.

References:

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